The approach to base camp is by a three-day hike up the Vacas Valley. We will spend two nights at the intermediate camps of Pampa de Lenas and Casa de Piedra before getting to the Plaza Argentina base camp.
Once in Plaza Argentina, we will spend the next four days (or 6 who join the Extended Itinerary Option) for acclimatization and rest. During the acclimatization period, we will practice using our equipment and working in teams. Your body will be given the opportunity to adapt to the new altitude. As a group, we will also be transferring equipment & supplies up to the higher camps, so that we will have a well-stocked camp when we arrive. On the mountain we will set up two altitude camps. By experience we know that a third camp (after Camp 2) would be too high and extremely windy to rest and sleep properly. We have also learned that an intermediary camp between Camps 1 and 2 is not necessary. Maintaining a third camp demands too much energy on the part of our clients, and is a waste of mental and physical energy. After leaving Camp 2, we will head for the summit, traversing the mountain to reach the Normal Route, just below Camp Independencia.
The guides (1 guide for ever 3 or 4 climbers), will be responsible for leading the climb, paying special attention to the safety of everyone in the party. Guides will also be in charge of various chores, such as cooking and providing hot water. The expedition also includes two extra days to get to the summit, in case our guides judge the weather to be too rough to continue.
Mendoza.
An Aconcagua Adventures representative will greet you at the airport and transfer you to the hotel in Mendoza. At the hotel, we will check your equipment. Arriving in the morning will give you some time to tour the city. Mendoza is a wonderful and safe city, with friendly people, sidewalks cafes, shopping malls and thousands of trees.
Puenta del Inca.
182 km / 113 miles separates Mendoza from Puente del Inca. Early in the morning our mountain guides will meet you at the hotel and drive to the Park Permit Office and then to Puente del Inca (2,275m / 8,890ft). It is about a two-and-a-half hour drive to Puente del Inca. Mountain guides will organize mule loads in the evening. Hosteria Puente del Inca offers private rooms with hot shower and good food. There we will spend our first night on the mountain.
Pampa de Lenas.
The group will be driven to the trailhead (Punta de Vacas). After this we will hike up (3-4 hours) to the first intermediate camp, Pampa de Lenas (9,100ft / 2,800m). A day pack is all that you will carry on the approach hike. Mules will meet us here, as well as at the other base camps to leave the equipment and food we need.
Casa de Piedra.
A 5-6 hours trek will take us to our next camp, Casa de Piedra (10,500ft / 3,200m). From here, you have a great view of Aconcagua. You will also be able to see guanacos, a big mammal similar to llamas, and the king of the Andes, the condor.
Plaza Argentina Base Camp.
We will begin the hardest day of the approach by crossing River Vacas. We will arrive at Plaza Argentina (13,700 ft / 4,200 m) after 6-7 hours. After some rest, mountain guides will organize the campsite and the equipment left by the mules. The group will spend a total of 4 days at the Base Camp for proper acclimatization and rest. (6 days for Extended Itinerary members). Our permanent Plaza Argentina Base Camp is led by its own manager and has both a dining tent and a toilette tent. During your stay, mountain guides will give you instructions about crampons use. An exploratory trek in the surroundings of P. Argentina is scheduled for acclimatization, as well as a carry of equipment to Camp 1 (returning to Base Camp the same day). The last day at Base Camp prior to the climb, mountain guides will take a look at your personal equipment (about 10-12 KG / 22–26 lbs) and suggest what you can leave behind to lighten your load. Climbers will carry personal equipment plus the sleepen tent.
Camp 1.
Move to Camp 1 (16,240ft / 4,950m). Some 4 hours. Since the group equipment has been taken up there two days earlier, we’ll move with personal packs. Set up camp and rest. The altitude, as well as the climate, can cause dehydration. On the mountain, therefore, it is necessary to drink large quantities of water daily. From this campsite on, our mountain guides will melt ice to provide the group with a constant supply of hot water.
Camp 1.
We will carry loads to Camp 2. After Camp 1, the route becomes steeper. After dropping off the equipment, we will return to Camp 1 (some 7 hours round trip) to rest.
Camp 1.
Rest and acclimatization day at Camp 1. From this camp there are splendid views of the upper mountain, and the popular and nearby Polish Glacier.
Camp 2.
Move to Camp 2 (19,000ft / 5,800m), a five-hour climb. From this point on, we will begin to see a lot more snow. Set up camp and rest.
Extra days in case of bad weather.
These days can be taken at any of the altitude camps, or even at Base Camp.
Summit / Camp 2.
This is our summit day. It will take 12 hours or more to reach the summit and return to Camp 2. We will begin very early in the morning. At this altitudes temperatures are below freezing. Mountain guides will check each climber’s personal equipment before leaving Camp 2. We will traverse the mountain to the Normal Route to reach it just below Camp Independencia, and then go over the Travesia, the Canaleta (moderately steep terrain with loose scree), to finally get to the Summit. From the roof of the Americas you will be able to take a look down on the expansive plains to one side, and the Pacific Ocean to the other. Spare time for some pictures and phone calls to those who supported you! Return to Camp 2 to spend the last night at these altitudes.
Plaza Argentina Base Camp.
Descend to Plaza Argentina (6 hours). We’ll enjoy a good dinner at our base camp to celebrate the experience of being at one of the highest peaks of the world.
Pampa de Lenas.
Mountain guides will pack the loads that will be sent to Puente del Inca by mules. Hike down to Pampa de Lenas (6 hours). Stay overnight.
Mendoza.
We will begin our last hike into Park Aconcagua. After the four-hour hike, we will reach a trailhead, where a mini van will be waiting for the group to take us back to the hotel in Mendoza City.
Departure.
Transfer from the hotel to the airport. End of the adventure of a lifetime.
This itinerary must be considered as a guideline only. Even though we will do our best to follow it, several events may cause changes while climbing a mountain of this height.
The Polish Glacier Traverse Route.
This route, also known as the False Polish Glacier, is an excellent path up Aconcagua. This beautiful, non-technical route is “the road less traveled”, with much fewer visitors than the Normal Route. Over the years, it has become our preferred trail. As on the Normal Route, we face the extreme altitudes, freezing temperatures, and hard winds. Our itinerary follows the principles of correct acclimatization before starting the climb. It has also been designed as an expedition-style climb, climbing high and then returning to a lower base camp to sleep.
Climb requirements.
For those interested in this route to reach the summit of the second “7 summits circuit peak”, our requirements are the same as for the Normal Route: excellent physical preparation, proper equipment, basic mountaineering skills, knowledge of winter camping, as well being prepared for a climb that will require perseverance, physical endurance, and patience. We recommend that those considering this climb already have experience climbing up to at least 5,500 meters (18,100 ft).
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